Survival in Lima

Many children in Lima, Peru grow up with one wish: survival.

Traveling through Peru I have encountered this ugly and growing monster called urbanization. Urbanization builds up the rich while the poor are trapped in an endless struggle for survival. This awful truth was mirrored in the countless sad faces of children I came across in Lima. Non-expressive they walk through the streets like zombies, old before their time, tough against a harsh world. Often forced to beg, without time for school, children are sent to the streets to collect whatever they can for their family and thus, become trapped in Lima’s endless cycle of poverty.
Upon entering Lima my eyes could not focus because of the thick blanket of fog that hovers over the city, blurring the concrete houses, piled high and cramped with families, with the never-ending throng of crawling traffic. Luckily, I had organized to stay with a couchsurfer outside the capital, where I was received by an incredibly heart-warming family. The 82-year old grandma, and matriarch of the household, cherishes all the travelers who come to her home, adopting them as her own grandchildren!
I was shown my room, a small rooftop box with a neighbouring family living in the adjacent room. The real crisis of Lima set in when I met the neighbours. Husband, wife and their eight month old son live in a ten by ten foot enclosed space where they eat, cook, sleep and live trying to provide a life for their baby. The husband works temporary jobs when he can find them. Sadly, Lima has a brutal rat race with swelling poverty problems where only the fittest survive and with little hope to climb out to the almost non-existent middle class.
Contrary to the ugly urban struggle is the beauty of Peru’s countryside, the huge expanses of magnificent deserts, mountains, jungles, and crystalline coastlines. In rural areas people work with the land by farming, living a simpler existence away from the traffic and smog of the city.
However, not all that shimmers is gold. As big businesses in the city conglomerate the farmers and rural workers are left to work harder for less pay. More and more people move to urban centers every year in hopes of better education, health access, and opportunities for their children. Unfortunately, a move to the big city often means a loss of independence, space and leisure. Urbanization is becoming a massive, stifling problem in our world, trapping the poor in a brutal lifelong struggle.
The contrast between the crowded, grey filth of the city compared to the lush, spacious countryside is vast. Who would choose to live in such an appalling metropolis? Sadly, the poor do not have many alternatives. If one is born in Lima, surrounded by poverty, there is little choice to leave.
In Canada we take for granted the countless choices we have and the abundance of space and opportunity afforded to us simply because we are Canadian. As Canadians there are ways of helping the poor in far away lands such as Peru. Back home we can choose to buy from independent companies, staying far away from big businesses like Walmart. We can ask questions and research where our food and household products come from to ensure that foreign labourers are paid and treated fairly.
With that said, Peru is not the poorest country in the world, but in a quieter way, this is worse. Here in Lima you will find a permanent, constant state of suffering. Apart from earthquakes there are no surprises here, just survival. Bottom line: we need to have compassion for these children and people in the world who have less!

Living in Harmony: Pink Dolphins and Giant Crocs!

I went swimming with the Bolivian pink, river dolphins! What a magical experience!

I just returned from ¨the pampas¨, a river area close to the Amazon and Bolivian jungle. As our boat meandered down the river over the course of three days we saw so many caymans and crocs! Plus, when we went fishing we caught piranhas.
And yet we still jumped in the water when the chance arose to swim with these amazing river dolphins. I was told that the dolphins are more territorial than the crocs and piranhas so...we were kind of safe. And it was worth it to be are eye level with these royal mammals.
I had never heard of a river dolphin before, but I now know that there are about 4 different species. Many years ago they were trapped in the rivers and adapted to their environment.
We saw so many cool animals! There were tons of exotic birds, including the royal toucan which is a rare and beautiful site. We also spotted many capybaras munching away on the vegetation near the shore. They are the largest rodent in the world!
On our last day we were even visited by these cute little guys! I think they were looking for a banana but all I had to give them was a potato! They left quickly once they realized the potato was only motivation for a photo op and a close encounter.
I couldn't´t believe how much wildlife we saw in the pampas. The riverbanks were just teeming with life, colour and activity. And with tons of these guys around it was hard to tell how so many little critters survive! But then again, I was about 2 feet from this big fellow and he hardly budged. He was either saving his energy for his night hunt or simply posing for yet another picture, since this area is flooded by tourists trying to get the perfect shot of these grinning beasts!

The Peruvian Version of The Last Supper!

This is a painting by Marcos Zapata. The Last Supper Andean style! Check out the roast guinea pig in the center. The cuy (or guinea pig) is an Andean specialty from Ecuador down to Chile. I have yet to try it, but found this depiction in the painting quite humorous. Perhaps they washed down that cuy with a nice big chalice full of chicha (local corn liquor)! :)