Hello New York!

Well, I finally made it to America! I spent four fabulous days in New York City with Randi. We walked around funky neighbourhoods, soaking in the vibes, eating in cute cafes and melting under the extreme humidity. I will return to The Big Apple one day when I am not in the negative digits...its not the best place to be without money. Thank you Randi for helping me enjoy NYC on a tight budget!

Goodbye Latin America!

Paraliding off the coast of Peru in Pisco!

Well the time has come to fly away from Latin America and start a new phase in my life. I have really enjoyed my time and adventures here and parting is bittersweet. I fly from Lima to New York City tonight to hang out with Randi for four days in The Big Apple!
My last week in Peru has been a whirlwind of fun with the Burner Without Borders (BWB)gang in Pisco. I have been volunteering with this crazy group of compassionate volunteers who are trying to rebuild Pisco. Pisco was devastated by an earthquake on August 15th, 2007. Over 500 people died and over 50 000 made homeless and yet this disaster only received a new lines of print in the world news. BWB, a San Fransisco based group, has helped many towns, in the US and worldwide, after disasters have struck leaving them helpless.

It´s hard work being a volunteer here, since everything has to be down by hand. There isn´t any really great technology here and people are so poor that everything has to be made from scratch. We poured cement, carried water over large distances, and moved rocks and rubble with our own hands. Its back breaking work but worth it to see a school or house constructed for those less fortunate.

Over 200 volunteers from more that 15 countries have made their way to Pisco, Peru to help out. They pay less than $5 a day to live in cramped conditions, eat local food and many end up with stomach problems because of the poor sanitation and water conditions. Most end up staying longer than they expect, creating their own projects and raising money from back home to help the people of Pisco. You too can help! If you are able to donate a small sum the Burners Without Borders can continue there amazing wok in Pisco. They are looking for donations now to build Sanitation Modules so that families can have safe water conditions, a sanitary bathroom and kitchen unit. Donantions can be mailed to: Burners Without Borders, 1900 3rd St, SF CA, 94158 or log onto www.burnerswithoutborders.org to donate with paypal.

They also know how to have fun and relieve the stresses of the day! This picture was taken on Tu-Tu Tuesday, a theme day created to generate energy and positive moral. They hand-made these little numbers and wore them all day at the construction sites! A memorable moment indeed!
Now I am off to the USA to visit friends and travel my way through Arizona, Colorado, Utah, Nevada and California with a great program called wwoofusa.org. I will be volunteering on farms across the country in return for room and board. Sounds like a great deal to me!
Adios Latina America, hasta el proximo vez...!

Adios Bolivia!

Well my time here in Bolivia sadly has to come to a close. Bolivia has been my favourite country in South America. Despite the corrupt government and their ridiculous policies, Bolivia is an incredible country: a land full of diversity and wonderment!
Bolivia has left me in awe, a stunning nation with a colourful array of environments, cultures and tales. Bolivia represents life, its great variety, its great struggles, but most of all, its perseverance to just survive in face of it all. Adios Bolivia!

Una Fiesta en La Paz

One of the many colourful characters that danced past during Saturday´s parade.

Survival in Lima

Many children in Lima, Peru grow up with one wish: survival.

Traveling through Peru I have encountered this ugly and growing monster called urbanization. Urbanization builds up the rich while the poor are trapped in an endless struggle for survival. This awful truth was mirrored in the countless sad faces of children I came across in Lima. Non-expressive they walk through the streets like zombies, old before their time, tough against a harsh world. Often forced to beg, without time for school, children are sent to the streets to collect whatever they can for their family and thus, become trapped in Lima’s endless cycle of poverty.
Upon entering Lima my eyes could not focus because of the thick blanket of fog that hovers over the city, blurring the concrete houses, piled high and cramped with families, with the never-ending throng of crawling traffic. Luckily, I had organized to stay with a couchsurfer outside the capital, where I was received by an incredibly heart-warming family. The 82-year old grandma, and matriarch of the household, cherishes all the travelers who come to her home, adopting them as her own grandchildren!
I was shown my room, a small rooftop box with a neighbouring family living in the adjacent room. The real crisis of Lima set in when I met the neighbours. Husband, wife and their eight month old son live in a ten by ten foot enclosed space where they eat, cook, sleep and live trying to provide a life for their baby. The husband works temporary jobs when he can find them. Sadly, Lima has a brutal rat race with swelling poverty problems where only the fittest survive and with little hope to climb out to the almost non-existent middle class.
Contrary to the ugly urban struggle is the beauty of Peru’s countryside, the huge expanses of magnificent deserts, mountains, jungles, and crystalline coastlines. In rural areas people work with the land by farming, living a simpler existence away from the traffic and smog of the city.
However, not all that shimmers is gold. As big businesses in the city conglomerate the farmers and rural workers are left to work harder for less pay. More and more people move to urban centers every year in hopes of better education, health access, and opportunities for their children. Unfortunately, a move to the big city often means a loss of independence, space and leisure. Urbanization is becoming a massive, stifling problem in our world, trapping the poor in a brutal lifelong struggle.
The contrast between the crowded, grey filth of the city compared to the lush, spacious countryside is vast. Who would choose to live in such an appalling metropolis? Sadly, the poor do not have many alternatives. If one is born in Lima, surrounded by poverty, there is little choice to leave.
In Canada we take for granted the countless choices we have and the abundance of space and opportunity afforded to us simply because we are Canadian. As Canadians there are ways of helping the poor in far away lands such as Peru. Back home we can choose to buy from independent companies, staying far away from big businesses like Walmart. We can ask questions and research where our food and household products come from to ensure that foreign labourers are paid and treated fairly.
With that said, Peru is not the poorest country in the world, but in a quieter way, this is worse. Here in Lima you will find a permanent, constant state of suffering. Apart from earthquakes there are no surprises here, just survival. Bottom line: we need to have compassion for these children and people in the world who have less!

Living in Harmony: Pink Dolphins and Giant Crocs!

I went swimming with the Bolivian pink, river dolphins! What a magical experience!

I just returned from ¨the pampas¨, a river area close to the Amazon and Bolivian jungle. As our boat meandered down the river over the course of three days we saw so many caymans and crocs! Plus, when we went fishing we caught piranhas.
And yet we still jumped in the water when the chance arose to swim with these amazing river dolphins. I was told that the dolphins are more territorial than the crocs and piranhas so...we were kind of safe. And it was worth it to be are eye level with these royal mammals.
I had never heard of a river dolphin before, but I now know that there are about 4 different species. Many years ago they were trapped in the rivers and adapted to their environment.
We saw so many cool animals! There were tons of exotic birds, including the royal toucan which is a rare and beautiful site. We also spotted many capybaras munching away on the vegetation near the shore. They are the largest rodent in the world!
On our last day we were even visited by these cute little guys! I think they were looking for a banana but all I had to give them was a potato! They left quickly once they realized the potato was only motivation for a photo op and a close encounter.
I couldn't´t believe how much wildlife we saw in the pampas. The riverbanks were just teeming with life, colour and activity. And with tons of these guys around it was hard to tell how so many little critters survive! But then again, I was about 2 feet from this big fellow and he hardly budged. He was either saving his energy for his night hunt or simply posing for yet another picture, since this area is flooded by tourists trying to get the perfect shot of these grinning beasts!

The Peruvian Version of The Last Supper!

This is a painting by Marcos Zapata. The Last Supper Andean style! Check out the roast guinea pig in the center. The cuy (or guinea pig) is an Andean specialty from Ecuador down to Chile. I have yet to try it, but found this depiction in the painting quite humorous. Perhaps they washed down that cuy with a nice big chalice full of chicha (local corn liquor)! :)

Backpackin´ Mama!

The moment I saw my Mother walk through the airport immigration doors, toting her huge backpack and bursting with nervous excitement I was flooded with pride. I was proud and delighted that this year my Mom, Jacqueline Wood, had decided to alter her usual resort-style vacation plans to meet me in Ecuador, South America! For eight adventure-filled days I was able to show her my backpacker lifestyle and share with her my love for Latin America.
There was quite a role-reversal because she was not accustomed to the language, culture and customs. She has guided me through life for over twenty five years and now I was given the chance to repay all her years of kindness. For long bus rides I stocked up on snacks, just like she had done during our childhood road trips. I translated everything from Spanish to English, bargained for good prices, taught her about local customs and took her to the colourful, bustling markets to sample the Ecuadorian cuisine that I have come to love.
An amazing week was spent exploring the rain forest, cloud forest and Andean mountain ranges of Ecuador. We went bird watching, rode (read: galloped) horses along a trail near a gorgeous waterfall, and had fun bargaining in the markets.
After bouncing around in dusty buses we decided to try a therapeutic steam bath ceremony. Beginning with a barefoot walk down a stone path we were told to reflect on our negative emotions until we came to a cliff where we purged this nonconstructive energy by screaming. With a renewed sense of well being we were told to crawl around in the garden, on our hands and knees, as a sign of rebirth! Immediately following we were taken inside for a series of steam baths interspersed by being showered with freezing cold water! It was an exhausting, unforgettable ceremony that may be coming to a spa near you because my Mom thought it would prove to be a rewarding and thrilling business opportunity back in Canada…
Following the themes of cold water and crazy activities, a death-defying white-water rafting trip quickly became the highlight of our week. Tumbling down a wild river, enclosed by the jungle, we frantically paddled through Class 4 rapids along with our fanatical guide Manuel. Just when I gained confidence and felt like I could master any fierce, rip, roaring current I was thrown overboard and disappeared under the boat, lost in a torment of waves. Luckily we had been trained, for all of twenty minutes, prior to our rafting departure. Summoning all of her maternal strength, my Mother caught hold of me by my life jacket and hoisted me into the boat with one mighty haul!
When she wasn’t busy saving my life my Mother was active taking pictures of every little thing that caught her eye, in order to share her exciting explorations with family and friends at home in The Soo. My stepfather, Richard Wood, and my Mother have never ventured very far from the typical resort-style vacation. Their love for scuba diving and, in my opinion, the ridiculously short vacation time Canadians are allotted, has confined them to prepackaged getaways to Mexico and the Caribbean. This year she surprised me when she announced that she wanted to come visit me in South America. And every day in Ecuador she would exclaim, ¨this is not a vacation, but an adventure! ¨
However brief, we definitely created some extraordinary Mother-Daughter memories here in the beautiful southern hemisphere along the equator, and I am looking forward to our next adventure together somewhere in Asia 2009!

Preserving Indigenous Cultures

Trundling along bumpy dirt roads, for three jarring hours, in a milk-truck, I was awestruck when I finally arrived in the beautiful village of Guargualla. This gorgeous, indigenous community is nestled high, 3400 meters above sea level, in the Andes mountains of Ecuador. In this remote town I observed the Kechwa native standard of living; subsistence agriculture, a constant battle for survival against the elements, and their struggle to maintain their Kechwa roots while adapting to Spanish and Western influence.
Spending a month there, with the help of a volunteer agency, my boyfriend and I taught English and Environmental Conservation (in Spanish!) to thirty-five children ages 5 to13. There was no school there ten years ago so this whole education thing is still quite fresh. The kids were so fascinated and curious about us, it was a real pleasure to be surrounded by so much enthusiasm. When we weren’t teaching we joined members of the community with their daily tasks; 4 o’clock am farming, potato harvesting, wool fabrication, and mud-hut construction. Group gatherings are often organized at one house to help with hefty tasks, without payment, except for camaraderie and lunch. At one such gathering we helped fix a farm that had been devastated by a landslide. These people, who work so hard to live, have no problem helping others on their day off, all for the betterment of the community. What a humbling, eye-opening experience!
Their constant energy and fortitude never ceased to amaze me. Imagine slinging a hoe, walking up extremely steep cliffs or chasing around runaway cows all the while having your child attached to your back! Babies stay tied to their mothers, in shawl-like fabrics, for the first two years of their lives. There is a close bond created and reportedly these indigenous groups have much lower rates of anxiety, depression and Sudden Infant Death Syndrome (S.I.D.S).
I felt very privileged to be a part of this supportive, peaceful community. Only a handful of foreigners have been fortunate enough to visit Guargualla. Three years ago it was illegal for indigenous persons of Ecuador to be involved in the tourism industry! Thankfully that has changed, but like aboriginal politics around the world Ecuador needs to focus on preserving and appreciating the unique nature of Kechwa culture.
At night, snug in my mud-hut, beneath millions of brilliant, twinkling stars, I contemplated if the next generation will embrace or ignore this native group. Spanish and English culture has infiltrated this mountain village. Food products, clothing, television and other modern day practices have been embraced in places like Guargualla, yet has anyone been encouraged to include native traditions, like Kechwa practices, into contemporary life?
The people of Guargualla are extremely intelligent and innovative. It will truly be heartbreaking if indigenous groups like the Kechwa disappear. Will technological advances and the expansion of education help or hinder their society? If they can receive quality education and economical help they will have a better standard of living and a chance for cultural survival.
Indigenous peoples share universal issues in dealing with the established, or invading, society. There are over 5000 indigenous worldwide, most threatened by cultural transformation: permanent loss of language, lands, encroachment on traditional territories, and disruption in traditional lifestyles due to contamination of water and land.
On home soil, in Canada and around Sault Ste Marie, we can help defend our native culture. I believe it is important for the human species as a whole to preserve a wide range of cultural diversity and the protection of indigenous cultures is vital to this endeavor.

I am just in love with the little community of Guargualla! We are volunteering here for a month. It is nestled high in the Andes, at about 3200 m above sea level, 3 hours from the major town of Riobamba. It's very cold up there but no snow. There were no schools up there about 10 years ago so this whole education thing is still quite fresh. We tried playing a simple card game with some of the older men, about 36-40 year olds, but they just didn't get it and continuously asked us the rules even after an hour of playing! These are foreign objects and concepts that have yet to infiltrate the village. Most people live and breathe agriculture here, animals, plants and weather patterns. We have lots to learn from them, too.

When we return Tuesday we will be teaching about taking care of the environment (in Spanish!) to the older kids and playing games and painting with the younger ones. Actually, the first day we got there they wanted us to teach the environment within that hour, but we were very under prepared. Now we have some good materials and ideas, but it should be quite the adventure to teach them in Spanish. Luckily, for us they all speak Spanish as a first language and then they also learn Kechewa, the indigenous language, in school and at home. I am really enjoying playing with the little tiny ones, ages 1-4! They are so adorable and well behaved. I think they are calmer and more obedient than the older kids, more from fear of how strange and foreign we seem.

I am going back to the village today, Tuesday the 25th, and won´t be returning until April 5th. No internet access until then...but when I come back I will post some great photos and stories. I hope everyone had a nice, relaxing Easter holiday and that wherever you are it is warming up, Spring is on its way!
Peace and love, ciao! xo

Couchsurfing the World Wide Web

Forget hotels and hostels- travelers across the world are using the internet to find a couch to crash on, gratis! I first heard about this amazing community called couchsurfing, one year ago, from a friend I met in Mexico. I logged on to www.couchsurfing.com and was amazed to read profiles and stories from people who had traveled the world, saving tons of money and meeting cool people, as a “couchsurfer”. I was even more intrigued by the people who rarely traveled, but loved hosting other travelers in their homes.
The site's instructions are simple- sign up, create a profile, plan a trip and send an email to potential hosts, or offer to host some surfers yourself.
The most common question: is it safe? Couchsurfing has safety features, based on each member leaving references about experiences with other surfers and a system to verify names and addresses. Whether looking for a place to sleep or a brief chat over coffee, this no-strings-attached online network is a constructive and fun way to connect with travelers and learn about places off the beaten path.
There are currently half a million couchsurfers living in over 200 countries! The top ten couchsurfing cities include our very own Toronto and Montreal and there are even nine members in Sault Ste Marie. I have couchsurfed with over thirty people from Mexico down to Ecuador and couchsurfing has certainly changed the way I travel. I no longer travel to visit places, but to meet people!
In the last week alone, I have been welcomed into three separate homes with hosts from three completely different walks of life. In Bogota, Columbia I stayed with Mauricio, a humble 37 year-old bachelor, who gave me an amazing tour of the city, shared meals with my boyfriend and I and took us on a fabulous day-trip to surrounding colonial towns.
Four days later, I found myself in rural Ecuador staying on a beautiful farm with the Stevez family. They opened their home and hearts to us, cooked us some typical Ecuadorian meals and introduced us to their hospitable relatives. We visited some beautiful lakes, trails and farms and even went for a jog in a nearby village, with their teenage son.
Presently, I am couchsurfing in the capital city of Ecuador with 57 year-old Jaime Nunez and his family. Jaime is an engineer in Quito, but in his spare time he loves to travel and share the beauty of his country with fellow couchsurfers.
Over the Christmas holidays I was home in the Soo and my wonderful parents Jacquie and Rick Wood, who have always raised me to share and embrace life, allowed me to host my first couchsurfer. Dave Smaller, a Canadian Ambassador for the site, came to stay with us before driving across Canada to promote his fair-trade organization.
Couchsurfing has provided me with a community of like-minded individuals who want to promote genuine friendship and an open door policy. I know there are many communities out there like CS, groups that open their hearts and minds and enjoy providing a safe space to learn, love and grow.
Couchsurfers believe that the surfing of couches is a means to making the world a better place. It’s not just about the furniture or free accommodation, but participating in a cultural exchange that helps to build trust and meaningful human connections. If this has intrigued you, please log on to the site and you too can make connections from around the world!

Step Into Columbia!

Stereotypical Columbia: coffee, cocaine, jungles and the possibility of guerillas lurking around the corner...
I just returned from an incredible six day group trek in the Columbian jungle where I, indeed, passed by coffee and cocaine fields before hiking to the ruins of Ciudad Perdida (literally the ‘Lost City’), set deep within a cloud forest. Ciudad Perdida is one of the largest pre-Columbian towns discovered in the Americas. Built between the 11th and 14th centuries by the Tayrona indigenous peoples, who were later exterminated by the Spaniards, this precious urban center was deserted and concealed by lush jungle vegetation. Only discovered again in 1975, the Lost City is now accessible to tourists via a six day hiking adventure.
At the entrance to the national reserve my hiking group was handed fliers with a description and picture of a wanted guerilla terrorist! Luckily, we only encountered a handful of travelers, and several indigenous families, along the trail.
Much of the trek is quite steep; taking a 100-meter ascent only to find that you must descend right away and then go right back up around the next corner. Six days of rigorous hiking certainly took a toll on my body and I was happy to retreat to mosquito netted hammocks each evening, which were hung in small shelters built alongside the path.
After several death-defying river crossings, clinging to a rope as my legs were battered by the strong currents, I was left feeling a bit weak and shaky. On one particularly difficult trail I tripped over some jagged stones, lost my balance and was sent soaring over a steep cliff with a 40-meter drop! Fortunately, some sturdy roots caught me square in the stomach, saving me from tumbling downhill. With my fresh new scrapes and multi-coloured bruises I continued scrambling over rocks and battling through rivers until I reached the legendary 1200 Steps. These intimidating, mossy, stone stairs rise from the river leading up to the enchanting Lost City.
Every one of those steps was worth it! Enclosed by a curtain of fog, we entered the mysterious Ciudad Perdida. Hand-carved stone terraces, which once served as foundations for the houses, loomed around every corner whispering the forgotten stories of an ancient tribe. The haze created a mystical atmosphere as we trudged along towards our camp for the evening.
By morning the fog had lifted and the enormity of the Tayrona metropolis was revealed. Leading the hike, our guide Ender, enlightened us with his extensive knowledge into the lives of this lost culture. Among these numerous facts we learned that the Tayronas had built their city at an altitude of 1300 meters in order to be closer to their Gods; the moon, the stars, the sun and, most importantly, poison dart frogs!
Back from my jungle trek, sipping a steaming cup of Columbian coffee, and waiting for my sore muscles and bug bites to heal, I contemplate the lost Tayrona society and the forgotten lives that once lived in harmony with this land. During my travels I have become conscious of the narrow-minded stereotypes placed upon this country and will never again associate Columbia with only coffee, cocaine and guerilla warfare. After this week long trek I am left to consider the abundance of lost stories that, if revealed, could facilitate the shattering of stereotypes and tell the vibrant tale of a land, now known as Columbia.

The Flavour of Venezuela

Down a crowed street, near the center of Merida, Venezuela I am indulging in one of my favourite pastimes: eating ice cream. However, what I am eating is far from any old, commonplace flavour - mushrooms with wine ice cream! Here in Heladeria Coromoto, a Guinness World Record ice-cream parlor, there are over 800 flavours! Among the wacky varieties you can try tuna, Guinness beer, chicken and pasta or even one titled Canada, although I’m not too sure what Canada is suppose to taste like…
Merida is an energetic town, seated in the valley of the surrounding Andes. As a major center for outdoor enthusiasts, Merida attracts tourists and Venezuelans from near and far to its friendly, tranquilo environment. My boyfriend and I are enjoying day-trips to the neighboring towns where old villages sprinkle the mountain side.

San Rafael de Mucuchies is my favourite because of its artistic history and peaceful atmosphere. There you will find a striking stone chapel built by Juan Felix Sanchez (1900-97), one of the most famous artists of Venezuela. Sanchez, an artist, philosopher, and architect, became famous for constructing sacred places where he utilized rocks to form his artwork.

After a sunny picnic lunch near the chapel, we discovered that our money had been misplaced. Without the funds to take the local bus we found ourselves sticking out our thumbs near the exit of town. I have hitchhiked frequently in developing countries, but it is always a nerve racking experience the first time in an unfamiliar place. Luckily, after fifteen minutes, we landed ourselves a ride. Every time a thoughtful driver extends their kindness I vow to help hitchhikers when and if I own a car in the future. It is a horrible feeling to be stranded, to be dependent on someone else’s charity. Nonetheless, throughout my travels I have always found people who, even when they have nothing to give, extend to me their compassion.
Our friendly driver, Omar, a cardiovascular surgeon, was born and raised in the surrounding mountain towns and had numerous stories to colour our two hour drive back to Merida. Meandering down the windy mountain road I caught snippets of village life. I saw farmers pushing their ox and yoke over green fields, naked children tottering after farmyard animals and women snapping damp laundry to dry in the sun. This lively, spirited way of life enveloped me while the amazing generosity of Omar warmed my soul.
Despite the fact that the big cities of Venezuela were impressive it will be the small, eclectic villages that I will remember most. If I were to imagine Venezuela as an ice cream flavour it would have to encompass the fresh mountain air with a hint of the green pastures, complete with a sun-drenched, velvety finish.

Couchsurfing the Beach!!!

We spent last weekend in Mochima National Park in Venezuela with a group of 15 couchsurfers, mainly from Venezuela, and a couple of Europeans. We had a blast on our secluded island camping, swimming, basking in the sunshine and sharing yummy foods. Here´s a couple of pics from our wonderful beach weekend:


This is the big group, energetic group before we loaded up the boats to head to our private oasis.

At the beach: Ricardo, me, Ricky, Deby and Alexandra.

This is our amazing host and couchsurfing friend Aarron! He hosted us at his family´s home and every time we turned around they were showering us with overwhelming kindness. Their house was a gorgeous array of his father´s artist talents from paintings, sculptures, big, airy open spaces and antique collections hung on the walls. We stayed in the daughter's room, who was away in India for three months. Her bed was a pre-colonial antique bed and her room was adorned in Indochinese decorum. We felt like we were staying in a museum! The garden was incredible with everything from jungle plants, parrots, mosaic benches and orchids. What a treat to stay with such genuine, giving people!

Ricky´s favourite Venezuelan cervesa! Solera by Polar Inc.

We are currently in gorgeous Merida, a mountain town far from the Caribbean coast. We´ll be here until Monday celebrating Carnaval! Viva Venezuela!!! We are Columbia bound next week. Hasta luego. xoxo

Venezuela: a land of contradictions

Caracas is my first South American capital, a love-it-or-hate-it kind of city, a place where terracotta slums expand up the surrounding hillsides met by stunning valleys and prominent modern architecture. Dizzying political tensions infiltrate every aspect of daily life, yet the weekend brings throngs of Venezuelans to the gorgeous coastal beaches to party and relax.

I traveled Central America alone last year and I am now psyched to continue my Latin American adventures, this year with my boyfriend. Life on the road certainly has its trials - the sight of devastating poverty, the arduous task of finding a cheap, safe hotel and continuously asking for directions, all the while wondering who is trying to rip you off and who is genuinely being helpful. Traveling over the last several years has allowed me to test my limits, to seek out cultures and habitats alien to my cushy Canadian way of life.

My first week here has left me with mixed emotions and a whirlwind of questions. It seems like for every delightful experience or kind-hearted person I encounter, I am met by an equal amount of sneering glances and crooked intentions. When I first arrived at the international airport I was bombarded by a crowd of frantic taxi drivers and money changers, all shouting their services at me, competing for my foreign funds. I had four hours to wait for my boyfriend to arrive and I felt timid amidst this sea of intimidating men. Luckily, I met a kind, English-speaking Venezuelan woman, who helped me exchange my US currency, book a hotel and figure out the frustrating vending machine system. I was incredibly grateful for her help and unabashed friendliness.

However, the following evening, after a delightful dinner downtown Caracas, I quickly learnt not to expect such genuine kindness around every corner. At 6:30 pm, one block from our hotel, we were stopped by a policeman, who was quickly joined by his two cohorts. They interrogated us about where we had been and why we were not carrying our passports. Hungry and unaware that corrupt officers were looming, we had ventured out for dinner and had not thought to bring our documents. They fired more questions at us and even searched us for drugs! We anxiously lead them down the street to our hotel where we showed them our passports and awaited our verdict. Before leaving they demanded all the cash in my boyfriend’s pocket. We felt violated but we were not about to argue with three hostile, gun-carrying policemen. What is happening in a country when the supposed law enforcers rob your trust and hinder your security?

These two incidents demonstrate the polar opposite vibes I am experiencing here. In the last two weeks every experience has either been exceptionally positive or particularly negative. I have seen the prominent scars of neglect and corruption on the streets, yet I have also met some extraordinarily compassionate people who have opened their hearts and showed me the splendor of Venezuela.