Friday, June 29, 2007

Double Double

Happy Canada Day! Just a quick shout out to my fellow Canucks. While you relax with your 2-4's, go camping or attend a bbq I'll be hiking a volcano, here in Nicaragua. Unfortunately, there aren't many Canadians around but I will do my best and finish my trek with a nice cold one. There aren't any Steamwhistles or Keiths around...Tona or Victoria are the brews of choice.

I am curious what everyone is up to for the holiday and interested what you think being Canadian is all about or for my readers abroad, what do you think being Canadian means? What is the first image that pops into your mind when you think about Canada? A moose? Beer? Lumberjacks? The Canadian Flag? The beaver on the nickel? Voyageurs? Bonhomme (or Mr.Bon Soo)? Hockey?

While Canada is about so much more than furry animals, hardy outdoorsmen and tasty beverages, we often boil our image down to one of these symbols. Canada has grown as a country. Are there new symbols that better represent who we are? Chinatowns, Macaroni and Cheese or Tim Hortons?!

What do you think? Have a good weekend, EH?

Thursday, June 28, 2007

Leon, Nicaragua



Casa de Cultura, where I studied Spanish.



Camping in the old volcanic crater, last weekend, surrounded by horses. ¡Que bonita!



A gorgeous sunset at Volcan Telica!

Sunday, June 17, 2007

No Name.

Maybe he said, ¨can you spare some change?¨, ¨please help me, Miss¨, or perhaps, ¨you have very beautiful eyes, my dear¨, when he grabbed my arm in the market today. I don´t know because I couldn´t understand his rapid, slurred Spanish. I just pulled away, without making eye contact and mumbled the ever-ready, lo siento, I´m sorry.

Why couldn´t I look him in the eye? Why are we sorry?

Later, the same day, a nice, clean, smiling elderly man approached me and spoke rapidly about Leon and the beautiful surrounding villages. He also told me some language differences in Nicaraguan Spanish and then commented on how beautiful my eyes were... Although I couldn´t understand him completley, either, I decided to make conversation and listen to his stories.

Today I am feeling quite guilty, puzzled and a bit sad regarding the shell that is hardening around me. Everyday I have tons of encounters with locals but I dismiss most of them out of fear. Fear of the unknown, fear for my safety, fear of misunderstanding due to the lack of my language comprehension and fear of facing a cold truth. The truth being that poverty, sickness, anger and loneliness surround me.

Nicaragua is not only the largest and most populated (5.5 million) country in Central America, but is also the poorest. War and recurring natural disasters (earthquakes, floods, drought, swells, and volcanic eruptions) have destroyed much of the country’s economic base and caused great human loss.

And so I walk on, head down, perhaps muttering a polite apology, failing to even recognize the other person as a human being, who is asking merely to be seen and understood...

I know I can´t help them all, spare change won´t go far. Will eye contact, a smile, some kind words or even my time, provide any relief? I don´t know the answer, but I do feel somewhat ashamed at my constant knee-jerk reactions.

No one would ever wish or ask to be poor, sick or lonely. No one wants to beg, but millions, billions do everyday, who must, in order to survive.

Tuesday, June 5, 2007

Blue Creek Village



It's been awhile...I really want to share, with you, my experiences in the Maya village so I will try to paint you a picture of this peaceful Belizean community.

When I first arrived I was overwhelmed and felt so happy to be far away from the beach life I had been surrounded by for several weeks. The journey to the village was an adventure in itself. It took me several hours to figure out transportation and the last leg of the journey I spent in the back of a pickup truck with a funny guy who, I believe, was telling me his life story but he spoke a Maya dialect. Therefore I did not understand a word...he might have just been commenting on the weather, but I will never know. The ride in was breathtaking with lush jungles surrounding the tiny, bumpy, dirt road leading to Blue Creek.

Once inside the village I found my way to the Toledo Ecotourism Association Guesthouse, a small palm-thatched hut that can sleep 8 people but has never reached maximum capacity! I later found out that I was the fourth tourist to visit the village this year, and the first one since the beginning on February!

No tourists, no loud music, no on-the-make Belizean guys and no beach-I found heaven! Just a cool breeze, a creek beside my guesthouse, hundreds of chirping birds, chickens pecking there way through the underbrush, and the distant sounds of the forty-five families that make up Blue Creek.

At night I wrote or read by candle light and took cool showers outside (also with candles) before climbing into my little, quaint little bed complete with a mosquito net canopy. I had a rude awakening when I told Pedro, the owner of the guesthouse, that I thought the village was very beautiful and peaceful. He replied, ¨For me, I don’t know if it is nice, I don’t think it is beautiful anymore. It’s the same thing everyday for me; thatched roofs and wooden houses¨. Poetic and sad.

Just before dinner three, adorable little girls walked hand-in-hand up to my door. They giggled and whispered before they approached and told me that dinner was ready. They quickly named me ¨Michela The Giant¨. I love being considered tall! It’s a whole new world to me. After a delicious meal of tortillas and scrambled eggs I read the kids some books and helped them with their homework. There are seven children in total (Octavia, Leticia, Ophelia, Lavra, Amelvia, Arselia and their brother Alvaro)and they had tons of questions and stories of their own.

The next day Pedro came to collect me for some jungle and caving adventures. We spent over an hour in each cave system; one dry, one wet and I learned a lot from him. Twice we turned off our flashlights and just listened to the sounds in the cave and we heard someone walking around above us, someone whispering and a dog barking. I just figured it was coming from above, outside the cave, but Pedro said he hears similar sounds every time and there could be no way that we would be able to hear outside because we were too deep... eerie.

The rest of the day I had many visits from the villagers. Some were curious children who heard I had a camera and wanted to try it out, others came to welcome me or ask questions about my life back in Canada. I had a very long discussion about scuba diving with a woman who couldn’t understand how a person could breathe underwater and why you would want to with sharks and alligators around! There was also a community scavenger hunt that night and my guesthouse was one of the clues so there was lots of activity swirling around my little private oasis.

I had three very healing days in Blue Creek Village and hope to return near the end of my trip if I have time. I have never felt a part of something so peaceful! What an experience!

After Belize I took the long trek to The Bay of Islands in Honduras, Utila in particular. In Utila I did tons of scuba diving and obtained my Advanced Certification. Another place I would like to return before my time in Central America comes to a close. Utila has some of the cheapest diving packages in the world and I am considering taking the Rescue Diver course.

I quickly wrapped up my travels in Honduras because it doesn’t have a very good reputation for being a safe country. I am now residing in Leon, Nicaragua where I am continuing my adventures with the Spanish language. I plan to take classes for 2-3 weeks here and then go explore big, beautiful Nicaragua before heading south to Costa Rica.