I am just in love with the little community of Guargualla! We are volunteering here for a month. It is nestled high in the Andes, at about 3200 m above sea level, 3 hours from the major town of Riobamba. It's very cold up there but no snow. There were no schools up there about 10 years ago so this whole education thing is still quite fresh. We tried playing a simple card game with some of the older men, about 36-40 year olds, but they just didn't get it and continuously asked us the rules even after an hour of playing! These are foreign objects and concepts that have yet to infiltrate the village. Most people live and breathe agriculture here, animals, plants and weather patterns. We have lots to learn from them, too.

When we return Tuesday we will be teaching about taking care of the environment (in Spanish!) to the older kids and playing games and painting with the younger ones. Actually, the first day we got there they wanted us to teach the environment within that hour, but we were very under prepared. Now we have some good materials and ideas, but it should be quite the adventure to teach them in Spanish. Luckily, for us they all speak Spanish as a first language and then they also learn Kechewa, the indigenous language, in school and at home. I am really enjoying playing with the little tiny ones, ages 1-4! They are so adorable and well behaved. I think they are calmer and more obedient than the older kids, more from fear of how strange and foreign we seem.

I am going back to the village today, Tuesday the 25th, and won´t be returning until April 5th. No internet access until then...but when I come back I will post some great photos and stories. I hope everyone had a nice, relaxing Easter holiday and that wherever you are it is warming up, Spring is on its way!
Peace and love, ciao! xo

Couchsurfing the World Wide Web

Forget hotels and hostels- travelers across the world are using the internet to find a couch to crash on, gratis! I first heard about this amazing community called couchsurfing, one year ago, from a friend I met in Mexico. I logged on to www.couchsurfing.com and was amazed to read profiles and stories from people who had traveled the world, saving tons of money and meeting cool people, as a “couchsurfer”. I was even more intrigued by the people who rarely traveled, but loved hosting other travelers in their homes.
The site's instructions are simple- sign up, create a profile, plan a trip and send an email to potential hosts, or offer to host some surfers yourself.
The most common question: is it safe? Couchsurfing has safety features, based on each member leaving references about experiences with other surfers and a system to verify names and addresses. Whether looking for a place to sleep or a brief chat over coffee, this no-strings-attached online network is a constructive and fun way to connect with travelers and learn about places off the beaten path.
There are currently half a million couchsurfers living in over 200 countries! The top ten couchsurfing cities include our very own Toronto and Montreal and there are even nine members in Sault Ste Marie. I have couchsurfed with over thirty people from Mexico down to Ecuador and couchsurfing has certainly changed the way I travel. I no longer travel to visit places, but to meet people!
In the last week alone, I have been welcomed into three separate homes with hosts from three completely different walks of life. In Bogota, Columbia I stayed with Mauricio, a humble 37 year-old bachelor, who gave me an amazing tour of the city, shared meals with my boyfriend and I and took us on a fabulous day-trip to surrounding colonial towns.
Four days later, I found myself in rural Ecuador staying on a beautiful farm with the Stevez family. They opened their home and hearts to us, cooked us some typical Ecuadorian meals and introduced us to their hospitable relatives. We visited some beautiful lakes, trails and farms and even went for a jog in a nearby village, with their teenage son.
Presently, I am couchsurfing in the capital city of Ecuador with 57 year-old Jaime Nunez and his family. Jaime is an engineer in Quito, but in his spare time he loves to travel and share the beauty of his country with fellow couchsurfers.
Over the Christmas holidays I was home in the Soo and my wonderful parents Jacquie and Rick Wood, who have always raised me to share and embrace life, allowed me to host my first couchsurfer. Dave Smaller, a Canadian Ambassador for the site, came to stay with us before driving across Canada to promote his fair-trade organization.
Couchsurfing has provided me with a community of like-minded individuals who want to promote genuine friendship and an open door policy. I know there are many communities out there like CS, groups that open their hearts and minds and enjoy providing a safe space to learn, love and grow.
Couchsurfers believe that the surfing of couches is a means to making the world a better place. It’s not just about the furniture or free accommodation, but participating in a cultural exchange that helps to build trust and meaningful human connections. If this has intrigued you, please log on to the site and you too can make connections from around the world!

Step Into Columbia!

Stereotypical Columbia: coffee, cocaine, jungles and the possibility of guerillas lurking around the corner...
I just returned from an incredible six day group trek in the Columbian jungle where I, indeed, passed by coffee and cocaine fields before hiking to the ruins of Ciudad Perdida (literally the ‘Lost City’), set deep within a cloud forest. Ciudad Perdida is one of the largest pre-Columbian towns discovered in the Americas. Built between the 11th and 14th centuries by the Tayrona indigenous peoples, who were later exterminated by the Spaniards, this precious urban center was deserted and concealed by lush jungle vegetation. Only discovered again in 1975, the Lost City is now accessible to tourists via a six day hiking adventure.
At the entrance to the national reserve my hiking group was handed fliers with a description and picture of a wanted guerilla terrorist! Luckily, we only encountered a handful of travelers, and several indigenous families, along the trail.
Much of the trek is quite steep; taking a 100-meter ascent only to find that you must descend right away and then go right back up around the next corner. Six days of rigorous hiking certainly took a toll on my body and I was happy to retreat to mosquito netted hammocks each evening, which were hung in small shelters built alongside the path.
After several death-defying river crossings, clinging to a rope as my legs were battered by the strong currents, I was left feeling a bit weak and shaky. On one particularly difficult trail I tripped over some jagged stones, lost my balance and was sent soaring over a steep cliff with a 40-meter drop! Fortunately, some sturdy roots caught me square in the stomach, saving me from tumbling downhill. With my fresh new scrapes and multi-coloured bruises I continued scrambling over rocks and battling through rivers until I reached the legendary 1200 Steps. These intimidating, mossy, stone stairs rise from the river leading up to the enchanting Lost City.
Every one of those steps was worth it! Enclosed by a curtain of fog, we entered the mysterious Ciudad Perdida. Hand-carved stone terraces, which once served as foundations for the houses, loomed around every corner whispering the forgotten stories of an ancient tribe. The haze created a mystical atmosphere as we trudged along towards our camp for the evening.
By morning the fog had lifted and the enormity of the Tayrona metropolis was revealed. Leading the hike, our guide Ender, enlightened us with his extensive knowledge into the lives of this lost culture. Among these numerous facts we learned that the Tayronas had built their city at an altitude of 1300 meters in order to be closer to their Gods; the moon, the stars, the sun and, most importantly, poison dart frogs!
Back from my jungle trek, sipping a steaming cup of Columbian coffee, and waiting for my sore muscles and bug bites to heal, I contemplate the lost Tayrona society and the forgotten lives that once lived in harmony with this land. During my travels I have become conscious of the narrow-minded stereotypes placed upon this country and will never again associate Columbia with only coffee, cocaine and guerilla warfare. After this week long trek I am left to consider the abundance of lost stories that, if revealed, could facilitate the shattering of stereotypes and tell the vibrant tale of a land, now known as Columbia.

The Flavour of Venezuela

Down a crowed street, near the center of Merida, Venezuela I am indulging in one of my favourite pastimes: eating ice cream. However, what I am eating is far from any old, commonplace flavour - mushrooms with wine ice cream! Here in Heladeria Coromoto, a Guinness World Record ice-cream parlor, there are over 800 flavours! Among the wacky varieties you can try tuna, Guinness beer, chicken and pasta or even one titled Canada, although I’m not too sure what Canada is suppose to taste like…
Merida is an energetic town, seated in the valley of the surrounding Andes. As a major center for outdoor enthusiasts, Merida attracts tourists and Venezuelans from near and far to its friendly, tranquilo environment. My boyfriend and I are enjoying day-trips to the neighboring towns where old villages sprinkle the mountain side.

San Rafael de Mucuchies is my favourite because of its artistic history and peaceful atmosphere. There you will find a striking stone chapel built by Juan Felix Sanchez (1900-97), one of the most famous artists of Venezuela. Sanchez, an artist, philosopher, and architect, became famous for constructing sacred places where he utilized rocks to form his artwork.

After a sunny picnic lunch near the chapel, we discovered that our money had been misplaced. Without the funds to take the local bus we found ourselves sticking out our thumbs near the exit of town. I have hitchhiked frequently in developing countries, but it is always a nerve racking experience the first time in an unfamiliar place. Luckily, after fifteen minutes, we landed ourselves a ride. Every time a thoughtful driver extends their kindness I vow to help hitchhikers when and if I own a car in the future. It is a horrible feeling to be stranded, to be dependent on someone else’s charity. Nonetheless, throughout my travels I have always found people who, even when they have nothing to give, extend to me their compassion.
Our friendly driver, Omar, a cardiovascular surgeon, was born and raised in the surrounding mountain towns and had numerous stories to colour our two hour drive back to Merida. Meandering down the windy mountain road I caught snippets of village life. I saw farmers pushing their ox and yoke over green fields, naked children tottering after farmyard animals and women snapping damp laundry to dry in the sun. This lively, spirited way of life enveloped me while the amazing generosity of Omar warmed my soul.
Despite the fact that the big cities of Venezuela were impressive it will be the small, eclectic villages that I will remember most. If I were to imagine Venezuela as an ice cream flavour it would have to encompass the fresh mountain air with a hint of the green pastures, complete with a sun-drenched, velvety finish.

Couchsurfing the Beach!!!

We spent last weekend in Mochima National Park in Venezuela with a group of 15 couchsurfers, mainly from Venezuela, and a couple of Europeans. We had a blast on our secluded island camping, swimming, basking in the sunshine and sharing yummy foods. Here´s a couple of pics from our wonderful beach weekend:


This is the big group, energetic group before we loaded up the boats to head to our private oasis.

At the beach: Ricardo, me, Ricky, Deby and Alexandra.

This is our amazing host and couchsurfing friend Aarron! He hosted us at his family´s home and every time we turned around they were showering us with overwhelming kindness. Their house was a gorgeous array of his father´s artist talents from paintings, sculptures, big, airy open spaces and antique collections hung on the walls. We stayed in the daughter's room, who was away in India for three months. Her bed was a pre-colonial antique bed and her room was adorned in Indochinese decorum. We felt like we were staying in a museum! The garden was incredible with everything from jungle plants, parrots, mosaic benches and orchids. What a treat to stay with such genuine, giving people!

Ricky´s favourite Venezuelan cervesa! Solera by Polar Inc.

We are currently in gorgeous Merida, a mountain town far from the Caribbean coast. We´ll be here until Monday celebrating Carnaval! Viva Venezuela!!! We are Columbia bound next week. Hasta luego. xoxo

Venezuela: a land of contradictions

Caracas is my first South American capital, a love-it-or-hate-it kind of city, a place where terracotta slums expand up the surrounding hillsides met by stunning valleys and prominent modern architecture. Dizzying political tensions infiltrate every aspect of daily life, yet the weekend brings throngs of Venezuelans to the gorgeous coastal beaches to party and relax.

I traveled Central America alone last year and I am now psyched to continue my Latin American adventures, this year with my boyfriend. Life on the road certainly has its trials - the sight of devastating poverty, the arduous task of finding a cheap, safe hotel and continuously asking for directions, all the while wondering who is trying to rip you off and who is genuinely being helpful. Traveling over the last several years has allowed me to test my limits, to seek out cultures and habitats alien to my cushy Canadian way of life.

My first week here has left me with mixed emotions and a whirlwind of questions. It seems like for every delightful experience or kind-hearted person I encounter, I am met by an equal amount of sneering glances and crooked intentions. When I first arrived at the international airport I was bombarded by a crowd of frantic taxi drivers and money changers, all shouting their services at me, competing for my foreign funds. I had four hours to wait for my boyfriend to arrive and I felt timid amidst this sea of intimidating men. Luckily, I met a kind, English-speaking Venezuelan woman, who helped me exchange my US currency, book a hotel and figure out the frustrating vending machine system. I was incredibly grateful for her help and unabashed friendliness.

However, the following evening, after a delightful dinner downtown Caracas, I quickly learnt not to expect such genuine kindness around every corner. At 6:30 pm, one block from our hotel, we were stopped by a policeman, who was quickly joined by his two cohorts. They interrogated us about where we had been and why we were not carrying our passports. Hungry and unaware that corrupt officers were looming, we had ventured out for dinner and had not thought to bring our documents. They fired more questions at us and even searched us for drugs! We anxiously lead them down the street to our hotel where we showed them our passports and awaited our verdict. Before leaving they demanded all the cash in my boyfriend’s pocket. We felt violated but we were not about to argue with three hostile, gun-carrying policemen. What is happening in a country when the supposed law enforcers rob your trust and hinder your security?

These two incidents demonstrate the polar opposite vibes I am experiencing here. In the last two weeks every experience has either been exceptionally positive or particularly negative. I have seen the prominent scars of neglect and corruption on the streets, yet I have also met some extraordinarily compassionate people who have opened their hearts and showed me the splendor of Venezuela.

Adios Costa Rica!

It's hard to say goodbye to a place, it doesn't exactly hug back...

Before our alarm clocks ring, while we are still snug in our beds, the world is alive right outside the window! After missing the early bus Monday I managed to rise on time and catch the 5 am bus Tuesday, to the capital of Costa Rica. Feeling heavy with sleep and sadness I shuffled to the dirt road to meet the bus. My head felt fuzzy and my heart ached, but Mother Nature could care less! She is fully awake and more vibrant than ever! I couldn't believe how much activity was going on, that early, right outside my door. Nature is grooving at 5am, marvillosa!

Brilliant flowers and birds burst around me. Grey clouds turn pink, while chickens peak at the yard and my puppy friend plays at my feet, not aware of our rapidly approaching separation. The little, chubby yellow birds that I see everyday are perched along the fence, a regal salute before I wave down the San Jose bound bus. I can also smell citrus and cilantro rising with the sun. And was that a faint whiff of pinto, I caught, being prepared by the great mothers of Sandalo? Mi comida favorita!

Scarlett macaws and parrots squawk above while howler monkeys growl in the distance, a sound I was longing to hear, one last time.

The nine hour bus trip is long and intense, but I fought off sleep to take in the glorious sights and to breathe in the rain forest that was my home for a season. Layers upon layers of green, a blur from my bus window seat. It has rained all day, almost every day in October and the jungle is now in full force. Today the sky is steel blue, while a light fog rolls off the mountains in the distance, clinging to the surrounding cloud forests.

Costa Rica is a very hard place to leave. The last 4 months have been bliss and I will greatly miss all the wondrous sights, tranquilo way of life and all the loving people who have touched my soul.

While explaining where I lived to a woman I traveled with in Panama, she remarked, "You live in a magical place at a wonderful time, soak it in!" And I did. This magical place and time will forever live with me. If you fancy a glimpse, just ask.

Tonight I will be couchsurfing with my good friend Cyril, the ambassador for Costa Rica. Tomorrow I am Nicaragua bound, another land and people with so much beauty to offer. I will then be making my way Northeast to explore El Salvador and visit an orphanage. Lastly, on November 15th I will arrive in Guatemala City where I will be surfing more couches and partying at a big music festival in Panajachel! November 21st I will be flying home, a week in Toronto and then up to The Soo to try and make some money and join in the family festivities before continuing my adventures in Latin America.

Adios Costa Rica! Te quiero mucho y pura vida!!!