No Name.

Maybe he said, ¨can you spare some change?¨, ¨please help me, Miss¨, or perhaps, ¨you have very beautiful eyes, my dear¨, when he grabbed my arm in the market today. I don´t know because I couldn´t understand his rapid, slurred Spanish. I just pulled away, without making eye contact and mumbled the ever-ready, lo siento, I´m sorry.

Why couldn´t I look him in the eye? Why are we sorry?

Later, the same day, a nice, clean, smiling elderly man approached me and spoke rapidly about Leon and the beautiful surrounding villages. He also told me some language differences in Nicaraguan Spanish and then commented on how beautiful my eyes were... Although I couldn´t understand him completley, either, I decided to make conversation and listen to his stories.

Today I am feeling quite guilty, puzzled and a bit sad regarding the shell that is hardening around me. Everyday I have tons of encounters with locals but I dismiss most of them out of fear. Fear of the unknown, fear for my safety, fear of misunderstanding due to the lack of my language comprehension and fear of facing a cold truth. The truth being that poverty, sickness, anger and loneliness surround me.

Nicaragua is not only the largest and most populated (5.5 million) country in Central America, but is also the poorest. War and recurring natural disasters (earthquakes, floods, drought, swells, and volcanic eruptions) have destroyed much of the country’s economic base and caused great human loss.

And so I walk on, head down, perhaps muttering a polite apology, failing to even recognize the other person as a human being, who is asking merely to be seen and understood...

I know I can´t help them all, spare change won´t go far. Will eye contact, a smile, some kind words or even my time, provide any relief? I don´t know the answer, but I do feel somewhat ashamed at my constant knee-jerk reactions.

No one would ever wish or ask to be poor, sick or lonely. No one wants to beg, but millions, billions do everyday, who must, in order to survive.

Blue Creek Village

It's been awhile...I really want to share, with you, my experiences in the Maya village so I will try to paint you a picture of this peaceful Belizean community.

When I first arrived I was overwhelmed and felt so happy to be far away from the beach life I had been surrounded by for several weeks. The journey to the village was an adventure in itself. It took me several hours to figure out transportation and the last leg of the journey I spent in the back of a pickup truck with a funny guy who, I believe, was telling me his life story but he spoke a Maya dialect. Therefore I did not understand a word...he might have just been commenting on the weather, but I will never know. The ride in was breathtaking with lush jungles surrounding the tiny, bumpy, dirt road leading to Blue Creek.

Once inside the village I found my way to the Toledo Ecotourism Association Guesthouse, a small palm-thatched hut that can sleep 8 people but has never reached maximum capacity! I later found out that I was the fourth tourist to visit the village this year, and the first one since the beginning on February!

No tourists, no loud music, no on-the-make Belizean guys and no beach-I found heaven! Just a cool breeze, a creek beside my guesthouse, hundreds of chirping birds, chickens pecking there way through the underbrush, and the distant sounds of the forty-five families that make up Blue Creek.

At night I wrote or read by candle light and took cool showers outside (also with candles) before climbing into my little, quaint little bed complete with a mosquito net canopy. I had a rude awakening when I told Pedro, the owner of the guesthouse, that I thought the village was very beautiful and peaceful. He replied, ¨For me, I don’t know if it is nice, I don’t think it is beautiful anymore. It’s the same thing everyday for me; thatched roofs and wooden houses¨. Poetic and sad.

Just before dinner three, adorable little girls walked hand-in-hand up to my door. They giggled and whispered before they approached and told me that dinner was ready. They quickly named me ¨Michela The Giant¨. I love being considered tall! It’s a whole new world to me. After a delicious meal of tortillas and scrambled eggs I read the kids some books and helped them with their homework. There are seven children in total (Octavia, Leticia, Ophelia, Lavra, Amelvia, Arselia and their brother Alvaro)and they had tons of questions and stories of their own.

The next day Pedro came to collect me for some jungle and caving adventures. We spent over an hour in each cave system; one dry, one wet and I learned a lot from him. Twice we turned off our flashlights and just listened to the sounds in the cave and we heard someone walking around above us, someone whispering and a dog barking. I just figured it was coming from above, outside the cave, but Pedro said he hears similar sounds every time and there could be no way that we would be able to hear outside because we were too deep... eerie.

The rest of the day I had many visits from the villagers. Some were curious children who heard I had a camera and wanted to try it out, others came to welcome me or ask questions about my life back in Canada. I had a very long discussion about scuba diving with a woman who couldn’t understand how a person could breathe underwater and why you would want to with sharks and alligators around! There was also a community scavenger hunt that night and my guesthouse was one of the clues so there was lots of activity swirling around my little private oasis.

I had three very healing days in Blue Creek Village and hope to return near the end of my trip if I have time. I have never felt a part of something so peaceful! What an experience!

After Belize I took the long trek to The Bay of Islands in Honduras, Utila in particular. In Utila I did tons of scuba diving and obtained my Advanced Certification. Another place I would like to return before my time in Central America comes to a close. Utila has some of the cheapest diving packages in the world and I am considering taking the Rescue Diver course.

I quickly wrapped up my travels in Honduras because it doesn’t have a very good reputation for being a safe country. I am now residing in Leon, Nicaragua where I am continuing my adventures with the Spanish language. I plan to take classes for 2-3 weeks here and then go explore big, beautiful Nicaragua before heading south to Costa Rica.

II, 16

How surely gravity's law,
strong as an ocean current,
takes hold of even the strongest thing
and pulls it toward the heart of the world.

Each thing -
each stone, blossom, child -
is held in place.
Only we, in our arrogance,
push out beyond what we belong to
for some empty freedom.

If we surrendered
to earth's intelligence
we could rise up rooted, like trees.

Instead we entangle ourselves
in knots of our own making
and struggle, lonely and confused.

So, like children, we begin again
to learn from the things,
because they are in God's heart;
they have never left him.

This is what the things can teach us:
to fall,
patiently to trust our heaviness.
Even a bird has to do that
before he can fly.

~ Rainer Maria Rilke ~

Backtrack to Cozumel

Some of you have been emailing and asking me how my vacation with my parents went so I thought I would backtrack and let you know we had a fantastic time together in Cozumel. Resort life isn't for me but I thoroughly enjoyed the three days I had with Mom and Rick. When I first arrived I was blown away with the prices in Cozumel. Thankfully, I was able to use a bit of Spanish to bargain my way around. I soon forgot about the exuberant costs when I arrived at my parents resort where an abundance of food, air conditioning and hot showers greeted me. It was like Christmas!!!

It was so nice to see my parents! During the day we went scuba diving and at night we relaxed by the pool or went and watched cultural shows that the resort organized. The diving was not what we had expected but still very enjoyable. The highlight for me was a night dive on my last evening in Cozumel. I saw tons of crabs, lobsters, starfish, eels, parrot fish, and an octopus that changed colours as it moved along the reef. At the end of the dive we all sat at the bottom of the ocean, turned off our flashlights and waved our hands around frantically. Odd? Maybe, but this produces a very interesting reaction underwater. Plankton are everywhere and when water swirls around them they get a little bit stressed out and light up. In complete darkness this creates an underwater light show. Very cool!

Scooter Mama! Mom and I rented a scooter to tour the island of Cozumel and had a blast. Traffic on the island can be a bit crazy but Mom maneuvered her way around like a pro. We went downtown and then scooted along the coast where gorgeous beaches abound. We found ourselves a tranquil spot and went for a little swim. We hadn't exactly planned for the beach so we didn't have any swim gear with us. That couldn't stop these gutsy women! How many people can say they have been scuba diving with their Mom, ridden a motorcycle or scooter with her and gone topless with her at the beach?! I have a very cool Mother.

We also stopped for a Caribbean size margarita at a bar called Coconuts. This bar gives out free drinks to women who show off their "coconuts". Private beach OK, public bar-that's where we draw the line. As you can see from my picture, full price for these ladies. :) They actually had a huge stack of photo albums at the bar in case you wanted to take a gander at all the women who had participated over the years... Far from Cancun, but still playing the same games.

You Better Belize It!

Yeah corny, I know, but hey it's the tourist bureau's slogan here in beautiful Belize. I had an amazing time on the three day sailing trip from Caye Caulker to Placencia last week. The trip was even better than I imagined. It was very low key and laid back but I was with such a great group of people and the crew, weather, and food were more than incredible.

The group consisted of a Swiss couple who just got married in Guatemala after their year long volunteer project. They are social workers back home and really sweet, down to earth people. Then there was a couple from Vancouver who I didn't really talk with much because they kind of just cuddled and slept most of the journey. Then another couple, John from Philly and his gf, Saskia, from San Diego. They were on the trip as part of their 10 day vacation to see each other since she was volunteering in Belize for a year while he finished his Master's, with a focus on the effects of Global Warming, in Paris.

Then there was Susan, a Civil Engineer from Saskatoon. She's volunteering at a water filter project in Honduras and had to come up to Belize to renew her visa....hard life, eh? She has just discovered the wonderful world of yoga and meditation so we had some very interesting conversations. Then there was good ol' Joe from San Fransisco, who was in Belize for a week to escape the 9-5 grind before going home and looking for another temp job. Also aboard, were two Czech girls who were really fun to party with during our rum punch night the first evening.

My favourite little group was a Canadian family who now reside in Kamloops, BC but grew up in the Soo! Russ and Wendy are a very interesting, active couple who have done all sorts of travelling and eco-challenges around the world. Wendy was one of the top female athletes in Canada! They have a little 2 1/2 year old named Bree who was just the smartest kid I have ever met. Wendy is quite intelligent herself and came down to Belize 2 weeks before her family to conduct grassland research with her 20 PhD students. Russ runs an outfitter's store and had all sorts of cool gadgets.

Last but not least, we have sleeping Mike. He has now fully embraced the laid back lifestyle of the Caribbean. At the beginning of the sailing trip he was eager to learn about sailing and fishing but soon found his calling on the top deck. :)

Mmmm dinner! Meet Captian Miguel who caught most of our meals during the trip and kept the boat on course. The crew consisted of three fun Belizan sailor's who also happen to be amazing cooks. They caught barracuda for us during the day and cooked up a storm for us at night.
During the day we relaxed on the deck, took snorkel breaks and visited tiny little islands along the way. At night we camped on isolated islands and drank a few too many rum punches. I was really happy with the trip and surprised at the great group we found ourselves.
We sailed into Placencia, Belize on Thursday. Placencia is a quiet beach town with a predominantly Caribbean feel. Belize is the only country in Central America where reggae is more common than salsa. I had a great opportunity to hear some great live reggae and I was even able to attend two Garifuna drum shows where Black Caribs beat out some funky tunes. After a hard day at the beach, we retreated to the popular hangout called The Tipsy Tuna. The drink menu was five times greater than the food menu, but both were equally satisfying.
There is a specialty side dish in Belize that always makes me giggle. To accompany your meal you always have the choice of either rice and beans or beans and rice. Yes, there is a difference: rice and beans ae served separately while beans and rice are cooked and mixed together!
Tomorrow I bus to Blue Creek Village, a Maya pueblo close to Punta Gorda. Belize has a great ecotourism association that sets up village stays in order to allow traveller's the opportunity to get beyond superficial sightseeing. I am looking forward to meeting some locals, trying traditional foods and living amidst the beauty of the region for a few days before heading back to the beach lifestyle. This time next week I will be in Utilia, Honduras where I plan to take my advanced scuba diving certification. Until then, RESPECT, mon!

Seafood and Karoke

I have left the touristy coast of Mexico and am now regaining my health in beautiful Belize. I was sick for the past few days, which I blame fully on the resort food in Cozumel, but am feeling healthy and happy once again. Carefree Caye Caulker, where I have spent the last three days, is an island 45 minutes from Belize City.

What is there to do in Caye Caulker? Swim where the island splits in two (fittingly called The Split), sunbath, eat yummy seafood, drink local Belekin beers and to top it all off: sing the night away at the local karaoke bar. Karaoke seems to be a big hit here and we gave it a go a few nights ago with some rather shy Dutch guys. Mike and I chose a couple of songs, but the other two were a little more apprehensive. All in all a really fun night!

Belize is much different than Guatemala and Mexico. We didn't feel very safe in Belize City and were even warned from a guy on a bike not to walk any further down a certain street. People are much more abrupt and in your face than in any country I have experienced. Yet, for the most part they also seem to be very funny, friendly, and outgoing people. Belize has an extraordinary cultural diversity. Creoles make up 60% of the population. They were brought over as slaves by the English from Africa and Caribbean islands in the 16th and 17th centuries. Then there are the Spanish or Mestizos who have descended from some mix of Maya, Mexican, Guatemalan or Europeans. Also lots of Chinese, East Indians, German Mennonites and of course North American immigrants.

A big colourful mix similar to the rainbow of colours one would find in a Toronto or New York subway car---except in Belize, they're all making direct eye contact and talking and laughing with one another!

Tomorrow I set off for a three day sailboat trip down to the south of Belize. I am very excited for the trip because this is a chance to see all the beautiful reefs and islands that make Belize so famous. There will also be lots of opportunity to snorkel, fish, and learn how to sail. We will be catching our own food and sleeping on isolated islands along the way.

I will send pictures soon!

¡La Pais de Jugos!

It´s simple: put fruit, vegtables or a combination of both and blend. ¡Es facil y inteligente! It´s easy and smart! I know, I know, we have juice bars in Canada and all around the world, but this part of the world has them everywhere. Every restaurant, cafe, and street corner offers a variety of fresh pressed or blended juice (jugos) at very cheap prices. Well, maybe not as cheap as beer.

My favourite blended juice is called Vampiro, meaning vampire. It consists of beet root, orange juice, parsley and grapes. Muy rico! It´s so good! And a great, cheap and healthy way to start the day.

I´m not sure about other areas in the world, but in Canada we have a company called Jugo Juice, which is kind of silly when you realize the Spanish translation would make it simply Juice Juice...anyway just some meaningless trivia for the day.

I am now on the Caribbean coast just south of Playa del Carmen and Cozumel in a small beach town called Tulum. I fled Playa del Carmen after scuba diving one day because it was overrun with resort type ¨touristas¨. Every Mexican I met there congradulated me on my Spanish, which is still very basic, and said how nice it was that I had made an effort to learn their langauge. I have been speaking Spanish as much as I can for the last two months so I was a bit shocked when people in Playa replied in English. And, I understand the average tourist who comes to Mexico for a week or two vacation doesn´t have time to learn Spanish. I hope to continue with Spanish lessons in 4-6 weeks once I am finished with the Caribbean coast and back into the thick of it.

I am very excited to meet up with my parents in Cozumel on Monday! I am staying with them for three days only, porque es muy carro, because it´s very expensive. We will scuba dive for three days and then they will join me in Playa del Carmen for one day before I head to Belize.

All I want for Christmas is a juicer! :) Although, without a juicer there are still many options and combos. Try one out this weekend. Squeeze some oranges, limes and maybe a grapefruit and perfecto, you have yourself a refreshing citrus jugo made with lots of TLC! Have a great weekend everyone! Adios.